Rajasthan - Places to visit, 1st part

Places to Visit in Rajasthan

MOUNT ABU

A unique destination for Adventure and eco tourism

The Raj period approached it as a relaxation place to rewind along with the royalties and semi royalties. The place sways in an interesting contrast of British style bungalows, the holiday lodges of the royals (Thikhana) along with the presence of the various communities of the tribals located amidst the thick lush of the forest on the hills surrounding the region.

The flora and fauna enjoys the adulation of the tourist to the fullest. Among the flourishing ranges is the highest point of the Aravalli is the 'Gurushikhar' with a vast sanctuary that shelters a number of species like langur, wild boars, Sambar, leopards and many more along with a number of flowering trees thus enhancing the whole scenario. This glorious ambience suited mainly to the likes of sages and tribals and both made a great impact in the history of the region.

The tribes still conducting there authentic life styles in the wake of 21st century is rather interesting and so is the collection of various monuments of different religious sects like the famous shrines of Jainism.

The Dilwara temple is famous for architectural genius. The intricate carving on the marble stone is simply mesmerizing leaving the senses spell bound with its neat structuring. A cluster of Hindu temples also marks the land with their historical past.

The Brahmkumari Ashram is another world famous religious community center.

Dilwara Temples [3 kms]
Mount Abu was an important Vaishnava and Shaivite pilgrim center up to the 11th century. Today, it is recognized the world over for it's magnificent Jain temples. No visit to Abu can be complete without a trip to the famed Dilwara temples. These temples are the greatest draw of Abu, apart from its salubrious clime. Half hidden by mango groves their sober exterior belies the wealth of their interior ornamentation. Wondrously carved in marble, the Dilwara temples enshrine various Jain tirthankaras, saints. Built between the 11th and 13th century, are famous for their superb carvings in marble.

Vimal Vasahi is the oldest temple, was built by Vimal Shah, Minister of Solanki ruler of Gujarat in 1031 A.D. It is dedicated to Adinath, the first of the Jain tirthankaras. Constructed out of white marble from Arasoori Hill, near Ambaji, 23 km from Abu Road, It is an outstanding example of Jain temple architecture.

The central shrine has an image of Rishabhdev and large courtyard with 52 small shrines, each housing a beautiful statue of thirthankaras with 48 elegantly carved pillars from the entrance to the courtyard.

The Vasahi Temple, dedicated to me 22nd tirthankara. - Neminath was built in 1231 A .D by two brothers - Vastupal and Tejpal, Minister of Raja Virdhavala, a ruler of Gujrat belonging to the Porwal Jain community.The door casings, friezes, architraves, pillars, the sculptures of porticos, are astonishing in their workmanship.Rewards in the from of silver and gold equivalent to the weight of marble covered, were offered to the laborer. A great deal of inspiration, devotion, love and encouragement was involved in the construction of this temple.The most striking feature of this Jain temple built in the Solanki style of architecture is the marble pendant in the dome of the porch. It drops from the ceiling like an enchanting cluster of half-open lotuses with cups so finely carved that they appear to be transparent.

Timing : 1200 to 1500 hrs for Tourists entry free. Photography not allowed.

Nakki Lake [1 km] -
The lake is picturesquely set amidst hills and is believed to have been carved out by the Gods with their nails. It is popular spot for boating and the only artificial lake in India that is 1200 mts. above sea level. The surrounding hills have several area of interest.

Sunset Point:
It provides a lovely view of the setting sun, South-West of Nakki lake, where the sun gradually drowns itself in the azure sky between two mountain peaks, steps lead up to high terrace which offers an awe inspiring view of the setting sun.

Achalgarh ( 8 km)
Medieval monument of Mt Abu, is the Achalgadh fort commissioned by Rana Kumbha, who was responsible for dozens of gigantic fortresses in southern Rajasthan, with massive battlemented walls and a situation on a mountain peak offering great views. A steeply winding path leads up to the 15th century fortress and the temples within the fortified walls, great for a view of the countryside.

The carved Jain temples are a 10 minute climb, worthwhile for the view and the sculpture. Below the path is the Achleshwar temple, with a Nandi said to be made of the five metals-gold, silver, copper, brass and zinc, called Panchadattu, and weigh more than 4 tons. The temple is believed to have been built in the 9th century around a toe print of lord Shiva, with a hole claimed to reach the netherworld, a natural Shivalinga and idols of a crystal like stone, which looks opaque, but when a candle is placed behind it sparkles like crystal. Nearby is the pleasant looking Mandakini lake, enclosed by rocky hills, with images of a Rajput king and buffaloes. According to legend, the tank was filled with ghee and the watering hole of demons disguised as buffaloes until they were shot by Raja Adi Pal.

Gurushikhar(15 km)
The highest peak on the mount (1722 mts above the sea level) allows a bird eye view of the sylvan surroundings of Mount Abu.
A small shrine and a temple of Dattatreya standing on the shikhar are worth a visit.

Gaumukh Temple (Vashistha Ashram)
My sages and sheers had their retreats on Mt. Abu, the most famous being sage Vashistha. To regenerate the human race, he performed a yagya or magic fire from which were born the agnikula clans of Chauhan, Solankis, Pannars and Pratihars. A natural spring that flows that through a sculpted cow's head, gives the shrine its name. Nearby is the marble image of Nandi who was rescued by the mighty serpent 'Arbuda'. Carved out of a rock, the hill temple of Arbuda lies against a picturesque back drop. It is accessible by car or jeep up to 3 km, from where a descent of 750 steps has to be covered on foot.

Mount Abu Wildlife Sanctuary
The sanctuary comprises the oldest mountain ranges - The Aravali. It was declared as a Wildlife Sanctuary in 1960. Apart from having several sightseeing places this sanctuary is a draw for nature lovers as it has great potential for Eco-tourism, In shape this sanctuary is long and narrow but the top spreads out into a picturesque plateau which is about 19 km. is length and 5-8 km. in breadth. Attitudinally it varies from 300m. at the foot Mil to 1722 m. at Gurushikhar, the highest peak of the Aravali Ranges. The rocks are igneous and due the weathering effect of wind and water, large cavities are common the rocks. This feature is typical of Aravali and particularly of Mt, Abu. Toad Rock in Mount Abu is one such example.

Mount Abu has a very rich floral biodiversity starting with xenomorphic subtropical thorn forest at the foot hills to subtropical evergreen forest along water courses and valleys at higher altitudes. These forests consist of 112 plant families with 449 genera and 820 species. Of these, 663 species are dicots while 157 species are monocots. Mount Abu is the only place in Rajasthan where one can observe a variety of orchids. The place is also rich in bryophytes and algae. Three species of wild roses and 16 species of feras some of which are quite rare have also been reported from here. The South-West part of the Sanctuary is rich in bamboo forests.
The sanctuary is rich in herbal medicinal plants also. About 81 species of tree, 89 species of shrubs, 28 species of climbers and 17 species of tuberous plants of medicinal importance have been identified.

A variety of fauna Including highly rare, threatened and endangered species are found in this sanctuary. The past history of Mount Abu indicates the presence of Lion (last recorded in 1872) and Tiger (last reported in 1970). Presently the Panther is the apex predator. Other animals found here are Sambhar, Jungle Cat, Small Indian Civet, Wolf, Hyaena, Jackal, Indian Fox, Common Langoor, Wild Boar, Pangolin, Rate!, Common Mongoose, Indian Hare, Porcupine, Hedgehog, etc. The sanctuary provides an ideal habitat for Sloth Bear, The population of Sloth Bear is increasing regularly as it can be seen while going through the forests or motoring on the road.

BUNDI

Bundi is the undiscovered splendour, 36 Kms from Kota ruled by the Hada Chauhans. First destination is HADOTI. Set in a narrow inclining gorge. The palaces and forts have fairy tale quality about them. Isolated and independent, this picturesque location has much to offer. Rajput architecture shines and in the intricately carved brackets, pillars etc. Interesting places are Diwan-e- aam, Hathia Pol, and Naubat Khana.

The Chitra SHALA has a colourful glimpse of history painted on ceilings and walls, making it an open art gallery. The paintings of Bundi School are famous for its festivals, animals and birds scenes portrayed beautifully.

During the state time Bundi was popular for hunting's and so are the hunting lodges like Phool Sagar Palace, Sukh Mahal and Shikar Burj

Sukh MahalsSukh Mahals evokes memories of RUDYARD KIPLING who not only stayed here but found inspiration for his famous work KIM.

Sar BaghSAR BAGH has 66 royal cenotaphs. Step wells (Bawari) are another prominent highlights of Bundi, these served as water reservoirs in the months of summers, there were over 50 wells but many of them had to suffer the ravages of the time. The CHHATAR MAHAL is adorned with beautiful wall paintings of the famous Bundi School. And so are the ZANANA MAHAL (palace for the queens) and BADAL MAHAL.

Taragarh fort It was built in 1345 and is great ramble around at leisure. This is rather a ramshackle fort, with its overgrown vegetation.The view over the town and surrounding countryside from the top are magical, especially at sun set. Inside the ramparts are huge reservoirs carved out of solid rock, and the Bhim Burj, the largest of the battle- fields, on which there is mounted a famous cannon. Taragarh is reached by steep road leading up the hillside to its enormous gateway. Take a path up behind the chitra Shala, go east along the inside of the ramparts then left up the steep stone ramp just before the Dudha Mahal, a small disused building 200m from the palace.

KOTA

An amazing, juxtaposition of majestic medieval age and modern industrialization, mainly the Hydro Electric Plant on the Chambal River and the Nuclear Power Plant has a few traces of its past still left. The fort overlooking the river Chambal is the foremost tourist attraction. It also houses the museum with a rich collection of art and artefacts and some elaborately painted chambers. Earlier it was a part of Bundi state, but later it grew to be a bigger state. What retains the past glory are the untouched wealth of impressive forts, opulent palaces and temples dating back over several centuries. These temples were conquered by the Hada chieftain Rao Deva. It was at the time of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir that Rao Ratan Singh gifted this territory to his son Madho Singh. The Kota state reflects in the form of a beautiful collection of Stone Idols (murties) in the Raj Mahal, embellished with gold stained glass work on the walls, the silver mirror work on ceilings and the marvelous wall paintings.

The Akh-Ade-ka-Mahal displays the regalia and paraphermedia of the state. Besides there is, Badal Mahal (the private living quarter) with the Kota Miniature show casing into beauty. The paintings of various schools of periods set in glass on the walls, the ladies interactions echo in the Zanana Mahal worth a look. Other edifices of the by gone era are depicted in Brij Raj Bhawan Palace, the Jag Mandir an Island Palace and a splendid haveli (mansion) with beautiful frescos and royal cenotaphs. Kota today is well known for its dams and famous Kota Saris, woven in the nearby village Kaithoon, these are made of cotton silk in an assortment of colours, and delicate golden thread. Miniature paintings of the hunting scenes, portrays the forest, while attracted many of the royals and aristocrats who passionately indulged in this wild sport, announcing Kota as the Magic along the Chambal river.

JHALAWAR

The princely state of the Jhalas created in 1838 AD, after being separated from Kota by the British. It is best explored by foot within the city and a horse safari in the outskirts as Jhalawar boasts of rich natural wealth, with flora and fauna as active. Since it is situated at the edge of the Malwa Plateau it has rocky but water laden verdant landscape unlike much of Rajasthan, with some exquisite pre-historic cave paintings, massive forts, thick woody forests, exotic wild life variety and a lush country side which has Red poppy fields, orange laden orchards making it look fascinating and colourful during winters.

The Bhawani Mandi contributes the major share of the fort,it houses some exquisite paintings on walls and mirror. The museum has a collection of rare manuscripts and sculptures and Bhawani Natya Shala is one of the rare theatre in the area built in the 1920s. The major outskirts attractions are the Jhalrapatan (city of temples),with a huge 10th century Surya temple, adorned by one of the best preserved idol of Surya. The Sheetaleshura temple is a fine example of Gupta architecture. A little away is the Chandrabhaga temple with gardens and a 'Bawari' (step well). All in all it is basically an attraction for the tourist of an individual interest.

AJMER

South west of Jaipur, Ajmer is an oasis wrapped in the green hills. The city was founded by Raja Ajay Pal Chauhan in the 7th Century A.D. and continued to be a major centre of the Chauhan power till 1193 A.D. When Prithviraj Chauhan lost it to Mohammed Gaure. Since then, Ajmer became home to many dynasties. Today, Ajmer is a popular pilgrimage centre for the Hindus as well as Muslims. Especially famous is the Dargah Sharif-tomb of the Sufi saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti, which is equally revered by the Hindus and Muslims. It is a centre of culture and education, the British chose Ajmer for its prestigious Mayo College a school exclusively for Indian nobility. Ajmer is also the base for visiting Pushkar (14 km.), the abode of Lord Brahma, lying to its west with a temple and a picturesque lake. The Pushkar Lake is a sacred spot for Hindus. During the month of Kartik (Oct./Nov.), devotees throng in large numbers here to take a dip in the sacred lake.

Ajaipal Chauhan founded Ajmer in the seventh century. He constructed a hill fort "Ajaimeur" or the invincible hill. The Chauhans ruled Ajmer till the 12th century when Prithviraj Chauhan lost Mohammed Ghauri. Thereafter it became a part of the sultanate of Delhi. Ajmer was also favourite residence for the great Mughals. One of the first contacts between the Mughal King Jahangir and Sir Thomas Roe took place here in 1616. The Scindias took over the city in 1818 and then handed it over to the British and it became one of the only part of Rajasthan controlled directly by the East Indian Co.

The bus stand in Ajmer is located near the RTDC hotel Khadim. And the railway is further north and most of the hotels are west of the stations. Northeast is the main post office and most of the cities market is located behind and up to Agra Gate. Further north is a large artificial lake called the Anna Sagar.

Dargah Khwaja Sahib

It is the landmark of Ajmer and one of the holiest of Muslim shrines in the country. It has a secular appeal and revered by people of all sect. Khwaja Moin-ud-din Chisti, a Sufi saint from Persia made this place his abode from 1192 till he died in 1236 AD. Mughal King Humayun completed the construction of the shrine. The Dargah is approached through a massive gate with silver doors built in several stages. Emperor Akbar made an annual pilgrimage to Ajmer. Mughal Emperors Akbar and Shah Zahan have built mosques in the complex. The saint's tomb is in the centre of the second courtyard and the actual tomb inside is surrounded by a silver railing and partly by a marble screen. The tomb is of marble and dome is gold plated. The atmosphere inside the shrine is charged and supernatural with burning of incense and offerings of flowers mainly rose and sweets.

As you enter the Dargah courtyard, you see two massive 'degs' meaning cauldrons. Mughal Emperors Akbar and Jahangir donated these cauldrons originally but they have been replaced in the nineteenth century. The larger cauldron can contain as much as 4480 kgs of rice while the smaller one contains 2240 kgs of rice.

The shrine comes alive with activity when millions of devotees throng the shrine during Urs fair. Urs is held on the seventh lunar month according to Islamic calendar and is variable according to the solar calendar. Sufis and believer converge from all over India and abroad, as it is believed that those visiting during Urs receives special blessings of the saint. It is compulsory that you cover your head while inside the complex so remember to carry a skullcap or a scarf. The skull-cap is on sale in the colourful market just outside the Dargah. It is also customary to make floral offerings mainly of roses, incense sticks and sweets that are locally available.

NASIYAN (RED) TEMPLE
The red temple is a Digambar Jain temple which has a double- storey hall adjacent to the main temple. The hall displays a series of large gold plated wooden figures depicting legends from Jain mythology. The entire hall is richly adorned by glass mosaic, precious stones, gold and silver work. The place is also popularly called Soni Ji Ki Nasiyan.


TARAGARH FORT
The giant fort stands guarding the city. It has six gates. The fort also has Miran Saheb ki Dargah who was the governor of the fort and laid down his life in an encounter. It gives a panoramic view of the city situated in Nagpahari of Aravalli ranges, this fort has immense archaeological and historical importance.


ADHAI - DIN KA- JHONPRA
This is a masterpiece of Indo - Islamic architecture. As legend goes its was constructed in two and a-half days (Adhai-Din). It is a relic of an old mosque consisting of a quadrangle with a front screen wall of seven pointed arches. The distinct pillars and arched screen with its ruined minarets make it a splendid architectural masterpiece.


ANA SAGAR
It is an artificial lake named after Anaji Chauhan. The catchments were built with the help of local populace. The 'Baradari' pavilions was built by Shah Jahan, to facilitate his long stays in Ajmer. the Baradari and the adjoining parks are the lungs of city and favourite outing spot.


Pushkar
For a devout Hindu Pushkar is a very important pilgrim centre, for one visit to this holy place in a lifetime is highly prescribed.

Brahma forms the great Hindu trilogy of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, each symbolising the lifecycle of birth, preservation and destruction. Brahma the creator is depicted as of four bearded heads and four hands each holding a book of Vedas (knowledge). His vehicle is the swan and his consort is Savitri. According to the legend Pushkar means a pond created by flower, was formed when Brahma dropped a lotus flower on the earth to determine a place for his yagna, a holy sacrifice. The story goes that Brahma wanted to perform the yagna at the most auspicious time but his consort Savitri whose presence at the yagna was vital for its performance kept him waiting. Irritated by this Brahma married Gayatri, a milkmaid and installed her instead. Savitri on seeing someone else in her place was infuriated and cursed Brahma that he would be forgotten by people on earth and never worshiped. She relented on pleas from other Gods that he could only be worshiped in Pushkar, hence there are no Brahma Temples elsewhere.

Pushkar is a much loved tourist destination, many who visit there just fall in love with the place and overstay. Situated on the edge on the desert it is separated from Ajmer by the Nag Parbat (the snake hill). The town has very distinct tourist excitement with narrow lanes lined with shops selling various accessories and rooftop restaurants. Despite its high tourist profile the town maintains some mystical charm.

Pushkar Fair

Pushkar is world famous for its cattle fair normally held in the Hindu month Kartika, which is around Oct-November. At this time the town jam-packed with tribal people from all over Rajasthan and tourist. It is commonly known as Camel fair, bringing with them several camels and cattle to the pilgrimage. A Fair ground is fashioned and is packed with shops selling souvenirs and eateries. Games and circus shows also goes on. And villagers come sell camels, horses, elephants and cattle and other livestock. Elaborate arrangement for staying of visitors is made including luxury tents. Just don’t miss the Pushkar Fair if you are India around that time.

The Pushkar Camel Fair is one of the largest in India and the only one of its kind in the entire world. During the fair, Lakhs of people from rural India flock to Pushkar, along with Camel and Cattle for several days of live stock trading, horse dealing, pilgrimage and religious festival.

This small town, becomes a cultural phenomenon when colourfully dressed devotees, musicians, acrobats, folk dancers, traders, comedians, sadhus and tourists reach here during Pushkar fair. According to Hindu chronology, it takes place in the month of Kartika (October or November) beginning on ashtmi 8th day of Lunar Calendar and continues till full moon (Poornima). The Camel and Cattle trading is at its peak during the first half of festival period. During the later half, religious activities dominate the scenario. Devotees take dips in the holy "Sarovar" lake, as the sacred water is known to bestow salvation.

This small town is transformed into a spectacular fair ground, as rows of make shift stalls display an entire range of objects of art to daily utility stuff. Decoration items for Cattle, Camel and women, everything is sold together. Small handicraft items are the best bargain for buying souvenir. The Camel and Horse races have crowds to cheer. Camel judging competitions are Quite popular with animal lovers. Each evening brings different folk dances and music of Rajasthan, performers delivering live shows to the roaring and applauding crowds.

Pushkar fair has its own magic and it's a lifetime experience for travellers. It has featured in numbers of travel shows, films and magazine. According to lonely planet -"Its truly a feast for the eyes.

If you are any where within striking distance at the time, Its an event not to be missed." Foot print India handbook 200 I writes- "The huge mela is Pushkar's biggest draw an unforgettable experience."

Check out my other blogs for more on Rajasthan..

No comments: